I incorporate natural dyeing with plants in many different types of fiber arts. I use mulberry silk skeins for hand-embroidery, wool roving for felting, silk ribbons and yarn for weaving. But I also enjoy “slow stitching,” and so it’s always good to have a small collection of cotton squares and crochet pieces for incorporating with free-form stitching projects, such as shown in these photos:
Cellulose fibers are treated differently from protein fibers when dyeing with natural plants. Mordanting involves several different processes, depending on your preferences. There are 2-step tannin/alum mordanting and 3-step involving tannin/alum and tannin again. Some folks I know use soda ash or calcium carbonate in their mordanting process. It all depends on preferences, water quality in your area and the types of dyeing you intend to do.
I experimented with alum acetate and calcium carbonate as mordants in preparation for using a saved madder exhaust bath and a newly prepared pomegranate dye bath. My intention was to build up a larger collection of hand-dyed pieces for stitching projects, as well as having extras to trade with other fiber artists.
Here are the results of the madder exhaust. You can see in the photos where the dye “struck” first, leaving a variety of madder shades–from salmon to deep pink–almost red–and a hint of raspberry. I included cotton scraps as well as vintage cotton crochet pieces from my stash to be dyed.
My second dye pot contained pomegranate, which came out in the photo below a bit lighter than in reality. These pieces are also cotton, and may be over-dyed later with other plants or perhaps eco-printed as samples in future experiments.
In any case, the pieces are bagged and labeled and ready to be used or traded.